LKR: The Zurich getaway and our first belgian beer

As CJ says in the Zurich post, all these are after the fact, but appropriately so, as we just couldn’t seem to bring ourselves to sit down in front of a computer for the last two weeks. There was simply so many other, better things to do – people to talk with, places to explore, bikes to ride, and we needed to let our bodies do more of what they’ve evolved to do – move.

For me, this was somewhat of a return trip to Belgium… though I had only been to Brussels and Bruges in 2003 when I had come through before during my month-long spring break that was part of a study abroad stint in Swansea, Wales. It was exciting to return this time with CJ, some of our dear friends from Fort Collins, and new equally wonderful people from other stages of Seth and Maria’s lives. This time I was ready for more of an outdoor experience, fewer museums and souvenirs, and using a bike as my primary mode of transportation from city to city.

After we did indeed jump heist-style into the European style Ford van Maria and Seth had rented, we drove the 300 or so miles through France to Orval in southern Belgium – our first planned beer destination: the Abbaye Notre Dame d'Orval and home of Orval beer. It is worth mentioning that in transit, we stopped at a gas station and were disappointed to discover that none of the credit cards within our group were accepted at the station. As it was after hours and there was no attendant, we began hoping for another person to drive through the station to whom we thought we might be able to pay cash if they would be kind enough to use their credit card in the machine (it turns out a chip is now required for credit cards in France, and much of Europe). Thankfully, a couple drove up to get gas, and CJ began the renewal of his French language skills by asking them the favor. Turned out our kind samaritan had shaken Barak Obama’s hand when he had been in Stuttgart for his first visit to the UK, and was happy to help us. It’s not to say he wouldn’t have helped us had Obama not been elected, but the fact that he was happy about our newly elected president made a world of difference to me, especially in comparison to the last time I had traveled through Europe in 2003.

We made it to La Nouvelle Hostellerie d’Orval, near the Abbaye Notre Dame d’Orval at 1:00 in the morning, silently crept up the stairs to our awaiting rooms so as not to wake the other guests and promptly fell asleep. After nearly 48 hours, this was our first opportunity to lay flat – what a wonderful thing we take for granted! Our morning exploration of the Abbey was relaxing and enchanting. With a small entrance fee we were free to wander old ruins of the old chapel, herb garden and residences of former monks. The newer, existing chapel, grounds, and brewery are closed to tourists except those who wish to stay for three or four days to learn about monastic life.

The name and legend that surround the Abbey entail the 11^th century Countess Mathilda of Tuscany, who accidentally dropperd her wedding ring, a present from her deseased husband, into a stream near the Abbey. In despair, she prayed to the Virgin and her ring was returned in the mouth of a fish. At this, the Countess exclaimed that she was truly in a valley of gold or vale du or – and now the Orval abbey and beer are marked by a fish with a ring in its mouth.

A case of Orval beer was purchased, I insisted upon a loaf of freashly baked organic bread from the café near by, and we were off to Brussels.

In addition to the Orval history, it is appropriate to explain a bit of Belgium’s beer history as well! Here is what the guide book tells us: “It is St. Arnold, the patron saint of brewers, who must be thanked for this bevy of beers. When plague broke out in the Middle Ages, St. Arnold convinced locals to drink beer rather than water. As beer was boiled and water wasn’t, this so-called ‘cure’ worked. Beer became an everyday drink – a ‘liquid bread’ to supplement an otherwise meager diet. Honey and spices were added to enhance the flavour, as was gruut, a belnd of herbs and flowers such as rosemary and myrtle. Coriander is another favored spice, believed to protect against hangovers.”